Ashland outlines the science of skin health and beauty at in-cosmetics 2015

BARCELONA, Spain - Working on the premise that beautiful skin is linked to overall skin health, Ashland Inc. (NYSE: ASH) introduced its leading team of biologists, dermatologists and formulation experts to attendees of the in-cosmetics 2015 trade fair. The multidiscipline team is focused on the discovery of new biological pathways that may potentially be used to hydrate and restore compromised skin safely and efficiently using simple topical formulations.

New research is centered on epigenetic pathways to modulate the expression of certain genes for the benefit of healthy-looking skin without changing underlying DNA structures.

Ashland, a world leader in the production of biofunctional ingredients, is evaluating select peptides, proteins and other natural molecules for application in novel skin care strategies. These include ingredients often utilized in cosmetic skin care formulations to improve the appearance of skin.

A series of demonstration cosmetic formulations created by Ashland and displayed at the company's stand incorporated biofunctional ingredients such as Elixiance^™ biofunctional, a new offering associated with a significant reduction in cellular stress induced by fine-dust air pollution in vitro (PM2.5 and PM10).* In all, the company demonstrated 10 formulations for skin and sun care that contained ingredients designed for specific cosmetic and sensory effects.

"Compromised skin, flaky skin and other skin conditions often require a unique solution," said Randy Bull, vice president, dermatology and medical care specialties, Ashland Specialty Ingredients. "Finding new routes to skin restoration and creating topical formulations that work within these pathways will enable skin care product manufacturers to produce creams that utilize skin's own processes to re-establish healthy-looking skin."

Approaching skin care at a cellular level may afford novel skin care strategies. For example, where fine suspended pollution particles (PM2.5) tend to induce cellular stress, a reduction in cellular stress may be key to restoring normal skin function.¹ Ashland's Elixiance, rich in quercitrin, a bioavailable form of the antioxidant quercetin, is associated with an epigenetic modulation of biological markers DANCR (differentiation-antagonizing non-protein coding RNA) and TINCR in vitro (tissue differentiation-inducing non-protein coding RNA).

"As more consumers ask for sophisticated solutions to skin conditions that may be addressed with the relative convenience of topical creams, Ashland is working to deliver those solutions to manufacturers of consumer care products. Evaluating the effects of biofunctional ingredients at a cellular level and utilizing formulating techniques that assure delivery to target areas of skin as a restorative strategy opens new opportunities in the skin care market," Bull explained.

Form and function in skin care At the company's texture bar, Ashland invited attendees to try a number of demonstration products formulated with novel biofunctional ingredients and consumer-desirable textures. Cushion Cream Q10, an age-defying formulation inspired by the antioxidant and energizing properties of coenzyme Q10, is a facial care product with sun protection (SPF 13 in vitro - EU) that exhibits the texture of a mousse without an aerosol system.

Age-Defying 3D Gel, an ultra-soft gel for the delicate eye area, contains Actopontine YST^™ biofunctional to enhance skin's appearance of elasticity and density. The formulation structure is based on RapiThix^™ A-100 polymer and UltraThix^™ P-100 polymer, two ingredients that enable the serum to break quickly and yield an elegant rub out of another ingredient, the Aquaflex&#8482 XL-30 polymer.

HydroSheer^™ Dry Technology Spray, an anhydrous spray, is clear upon application on wet skin. The SPF 50 demonstration sunscreen spray product formulated for the European Union provides a non-greasy, light, dry finish on skin. An additional seven formulations available for demonstration offered functions such as skin brightening, hydration, firming and cleansing in delivery systems with textures that ranged from always-smooth creams, to soft butter, to the silky, smooth finish of gel creams.

"Skin texturity" A major producer of skin-care emollients, rheology modifiers and emulsifiers, Ashland leverages its ingredient expertise to create signature texture solutions for skin-care product manufacturers around the world. Applying advanced rheological control techniques, the company's in-house formulation experts offer market-specific sensory solutions. At in-cosmetics, Ashland called this expertise "skin texturity," where skin formulation textures can be created for a specific brand or associated with a precise benefit or application.

"Creating consumer-desirable sensory experiences is a function of ingredient expertise, controlling formulation behavior all along the sensory pathway and considering the differing texture preferences of consumers around the world," said Eric Lippay, global marketing manager, dermatologic and medical care, Ashland Specialty Ingredients. "All of this expertise is leveraged within Ashland to provide our skin-care customers signature texture solutions characterized as exceptionally elegant and innovative."

He pointed toward strategies to cost-effectively improve upon the texture of beauty butter.

"Building the texture of beauty butter, which normally employs expensive waxes, will often lead to extra drag on rub out and may leave skin feeling dry. On the other hand, using a combination of ProLipid^™ lamellar gel and Natrosol^™ thickening agents gives skin care products the texture of butter with exceptional skin feel," he said.

Appealing to the senses Applying expertise in polymer technologies, hydrogels and lamellar gels, Ashland's skin-care team created a variety of skin-care textures designed to appeal to the senses.

"Each texture highlights a special polymeric combination that gives a unique sensorial attribute, like quick-breaking, moisture-replenishing, cooling, mattifying and moisturizing," said Hani Fares, Ph.D., senior director, skin care, Ashland Specialty Ingredients.

At Ashland's texture bar, a range of textures are demonstrated in a variety of product forms, including serums, hydrogels, cream gels, light emulsions, moisturizing creams and sun care formulas. The team outlined the rheological fingerprint of each formulation and correlated it to its signature sensorial attribute using Bowditch-Lissajous plots. Each formulation in the texture bar was also tested on a consumer panel to confirm its texture attribute and skin hydration properties when applicable.

For more information, visit Ashland at Stand 7D40 during show hours or contact Ashland at personalcare@ashland.com.

About Ashland Specialty Ingredients Ashland Specialty Ingredients is the #1 global producer of cellulose ethers and a global leader in vinyl pyrrolidones. It offers industry-leading products, technologies and resources for solving formulation and product-performance challenges. Using natural, synthetic and semisynthetic polymers derived from plant and seed extract, cellulose ethers and vinyl pyrrolidones, as well as acrylic and polyurethane-based adhesives, Ashland Specialty Ingredients offers comprehensive and innovative solutions for today's demanding consumer and industrial applications. Key customers include: pharmaceutical companies; makers of personal care products, food and beverage companies; manufacturers of paint, coatings and construction materials; packaging and converting companies; and oilfield service companies.

About Ashland Ashland Inc. (NYSE: ASH) is a global leader in providing specialty chemical solutions to customers in a wide range of consumer and industrial markets, including architectural coatings, automotive, construction, energy, food and beverage, personal care and pharmaceutical. Through our three commercial units - Ashland Specialty Ingredients, Ashland Performance Materials and Valvoline - we use good chemistry to make great things happen for customers in more than 100 countries. Visit ashland.com to learn more.

*In the U.S., some skin care products may be subject to regulation under an OTC drug monograph. Similar restrictions may exist in other parts of the world. It is the purchaser's responsibility to determine the applicability of any drug or cosmetic regulations to its products or claims the purchaser makes regarding its products.

1. Pollution and skin: From epidemiological and mechanistic studies to clinical implications. Jean Krutmann, Wei Liu, Li Li, Xiaochuan Pan, Martha Crawford, Gabrielle Sore, Sophie Seite. Journal of Dermatological Science 76 (2014) 163-168

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION: Michaela Neilson Communications Manager EMEA Tel + 41 (0) 52 560 55 25 mneilson@ashland.com